CITIZEN'S GUIDE TO PESTICIDES AND TOXIC SUBSTANCES 

Contents 

Knowing Your Options 

Tips for Handling Pesticides 

Determining Correct Dosage 

Correct Storage and Disposal 

How to Choose a Pest Control Company 

How to Reduce Your Exposure to Pesticides 

"Someone's Been Poisoned, Help" 

Knowing Your Options 

THEY'RE THERE. Whether you see them or not, you know they're there--in your home, your
vegetable garden, your lawn, your fruit and shade trees, your flowers, and on your pets. They are
pests--insects, weeds, fungi, rodents, and others. 

American households and their surrounding grounds are frequent hosts to common structural pests
(termites, cockroaches, fleas, rodents), as well as a wide array of pests that are usually associated
with agriculture. Because pests are all around--sometimes creating a nuisance but sometimes causing
severe financial loss--consumers have turned increasingly to pesticides to control them. Just as
"pests" can be anything from cockroaches in your kitchen to algae in your swimming pool, pesticides
include insecticides, herbicides, fungicides, rodenticides, disinfectants, and plant growth
regulators--anything that kills or otherwise controls a pest of any kind. 

The first and most important step in pest control is to identify the pest. Some pests, or signs of them,
are unmistakable. Others are not. For example, some plant "diseases" are really indications of
insufficient soil nutrients. 

Three information sources are particularly helpful in identifying pests and appropriate pest control
methods: reference books (such as insect field guides or gardening books), the County Extension
Service, and pesticide dealers. 

The next step is to decide what level of treatment you want. Is anyone in the family or neighborhood
particularly sensitive to chemical pesticides? Does your lawn really need to be totally weed-free? Do
you need every fruit, vegetable, or flower you grow, or could you replace certain pest-prone species
or varieties with hardier substitutes? Will you accept some blemished produce? In other words, do
you need to eliminate all weeds and insects, or can you tolerate some pests? 

Remember that total pest elimination is virtually impossible, and trying to eradicate pests from your
premises will lead you to more extensive, repeated chemical treatments than are required for pest
control. Remember, too, that to manage any pest effectively, you must use each method (or
combination of methods) correctly. Finally, you must also abide by all pertinent local, state, and
federal regulations. 

Federal Registration of Pesticides 

The Environmental Protection Agency (EPA) "registers" (licenses) thousands of pesticide products
for use in and around homes. No pesticide may legally be sold or used in the United States unless its
label bears an EPA registration number. The Federal Insecticide, Fungicide, and Rodenticide Act
(FIRA), which governs the registration of pesticides, prohibits the use of any pesticide product in a
manner that is inconsistent with the product labeling. 

Prevention 

There is another important question to ask in making pest control decisions: is there something on
your premises that needlessly invites pest infestations? The answer to this question may lead you to
take some common-sense steps to modify pest habitat. 

     Remove water sources. All pests, vertebrate or invertebrate, need water for survival. Fix
     leaky plumbing and do not let water accumulate anywhere in your home. This means no water
     in trays under your houseplants overnight if you have a cockroach infestation. 

     Remove food sources (if the pest's food is anything other than the plant or animal you are
     trying to protect). For example, this could mean storing your food in sealed glass or plastic
     containers, avoiding the habit of leaving your pet's food out for extended periods of time, and
     placing your refuse in tightly covered, heavy-gauge garbage cans. 

     Remove or destroy pest shelter. Caulk cracks and crevices to control cockroaches; remove
     piles of wood from under or around your home in order to avoid attracting termites; 

     Remove and destroy diseased plants, tree prunings, and fallen fruit that might harbor pests. 

     Remove breeding sites. The presence of pet manure attracts flies, litter encourages rodents,
     and standing water provides a perfect breeding place for mosquitoes. 

     Remove sources of preventable stress to plants (flowers, trees, vegetable plants, and turf).
     Plant at the optimum time of year. Use mulch to reduce weed competition and maintain even
     soil temperature and moisture. Provide adequate water. 

     Use preventive cultural practices, such as careful selection of disease-resistant seed or plant
     varieties, companion planting to exploit the insect-repellent properties of certain plants,
     strategic use of "trap" crops to lure pests away from crops you wish to protect, crop rotation
     and diversification, and optimum use of spacing. Make sure you have good drainage and soil
     aeration. 

Non-chemical Controls 

If you practice preventive techniques such as those mentioned above, you will reduce your chances,
or frequency, of pest infestation. However, if you already have an infestation, are there any pest
control alternatives besides chemical pesticides? 

The answer is an emphatic "yes." One or a combination of several non-chemical treatment
alternatives may be appropriate. Your best strategy depends on the pest and the site where the pest
occurs. 

Non-chemical alternatives include: 

     Biological treatments, including predators such as purple martins, praying mantises, and lady
     bugs; parasites; and pathogens such as bacteria, viruses (generally not available to
     homeowners), and other microorganisms like Bacillus thuringiensis and milky spore disease. 

There is no way to be certain how long predators will stay in target areas. Contact your County
Extension Service for information about how to protect desirable predators. 

     Mechanical treatments, including cultivating to control weeds, hand-picking weeds from turf
     and pests from plants, trapping to control rodents and some insects, and screening living
     space to limit mosquito and fly access. 

Non-chemical pest control methods really work. They do have some disadvantages: the results are
not immediate, and it requires some work to make a home or garden less attractive to pests. But the
advantages of non-chemical methods are many. Compared to chemical pesticide treatments, such
methods are generally effective for longer periods of time. They do not create hardy,
pesticide-resistant pest populations. And they can be used without safeguards, because they pose
virtually no hazards to human health or the environment. 

Chemical Controls 

If you decide that chemical treatment can provide the best solution to your pest problem, and you
want to control the pests yourself rather than turning the problem over to a professional pest control
operator, then you have an important decision to make: which product to choose. Before making
that decision, learn as much as you can about a product's active ingredient--its biologically active
agent. Is it "broad-spectrum" in its mode of action (effective against a broad range of pests), or is it
"selective" (effective against only a few pest species)? How rapidly does the active ingredient break
down once it is introduced into the environment? Is it suspected of causing chronic health effects? Is
it toxic to non-target wildlife and house pets? Is it known, or suspected, to leach through soil into
ground water? 

Here again, your County Extension Service, reference books, pesticide dealers, your state pesticide
agency, or your regional EPA office may be able to provide assistance. (Lists of State and EPA
pesticide contacts are provided at the end of this booklet.) 

When you have narrowed your choices of active ingredients, you are ready to select a pesticide
product. Choose the least toxic pesticide that can achieve the results you desire. Read the label. It
lists active ingredients, the target pests (for example, mites, flies, Japanese beetle grubs, broad-leafed
weeds, algae, etc.), and the sites where the product may be used (for example, lawns, specific
vegetable crops, roses, swimming pools, etc.). Be sure the site of your pest problem is included
among the sites listed on the label. 

Pesticide active ingredients are formulated in many ways. Choose the formulation best suited to your
site and the pest you are trying to control. The most common types of home-use pesticide
formulations include: 

     Solutions, which contain the active ingredient and one or more additives, and readily mix with
     water. 

     Aerosols, which contain one or more active ingredients and a solvent. They are ready for
     immediate use as is. 

     Dusts, which contain active ingredients plus a very fine dry inert carrier such as clay, talc, or
     volcanic ash. Dusts are ready for immediate use and are applied dry. 

     Granulars, which are similar to dusts, but with larger and heavier particles for broadcast
     applications. 

     Baits, which are active ingredients mixed with food or other substances to attract the pest. 

     Wettable powders, which are dry, finely ground formulations that generally are mixed with
     water for spray application. Some also may be used as dusts. 

Depending on the type of formulation you choose, you may need to dilute or mix the product.
Prepare only the amount that you need for each application; don't prepare larger amounts to store
for possible future use. (See "Determining Correct Dosage.") 

Once you have identified the pest, selected the right pesticide, and determined proper dosage, you
are ready to use the product. Application technique and timing are every bit as important as the
material used, so read the label for directions. That advice--to read the label--is repeated so often in
this guide that it may become tiresome. But in fact, the advice cannot be repeated often enough.
Read the label before you buy a product, and again before you mix it, before you apply it, before
you store it, and before you throw it away. The directions on a label are there for a very good
reason: to help you achieve maximum benefits with minimum risk. But these benefits depend upon
proper use of the products. 

Chemical pesticides also have their disadvantages. They must be used very carefully to achieve
results while protecting users and the environment. The results are generally temporary, and repeated
treatments may be required. 

Therefore, to achieve best results when you do use chemical pesticides, use preventive and
non-chemical treatments along with them. This will reduce the need for repeated applications. 

You should always evaluate your pesticide use, comparing pre-treatment and post-treatment
conditions. You should weigh the benefits of short-term chemical pesticide control against the
benefits of long-term control using a variety of techniques. Knowledge of a range of pest control
techniques gives you the ability to pick and choose among them. Pests, unfortunately, will always be
around us, and, if you know about all pest control options, you will know what to do the next time
THEY'RE THERE. 

Tips for Handling Pesticides 

Pesticides are not "safe." They are produced specifically because they are toxic to something. By
heeding all the following tips, you can reduce your risks when you use pesticides. 

     All pesticides legally marketed in the United States must bear an EPA-approved label; check
     the label to make sure it bears an EPA registration number. 

     Before using a pesticide, read the entire label. Even if you have used the pesticide before,
     read the label again--don't trust your memory. Use of any pesticide in any way that is not
     consistent with label directions and precautions is subject to civil and/or criminal penalties. 

     Do not use a "restricted use" pesticide unless you are a formally trained, certified pesticide
     applicator. These products are too dangerous to be used without special training. 

     Follow use directions carefully. Use only the amount directed, at the time and under the
     conditions specified, and for the purpose listed. Don't think that twice the dosage will do twice
     the job. It won't. What's worse, you may harm yourself, others, or whatever you are trying to
     protect. 

     Look for one of the following signal words on the front of the label. It will tell you how
     hazardous a pesticide is if swallowed, inhaled, or absorbed through skin. 

"DANGER"
means highly poisonous; 

"WARNING"
means moderately hazardous; 

"CAUTION"
means least hazardous. 

     Wear the items of protective clothing the label requires: for example, long sleeves and long
     pants, impervious gloves, rubber (not canvas or leather) footwear, hat, and goggles. Personal
     protective clothing usually is available at home building supply stores. 

     If you must mix or dilute the pesticide, do so outdoors or in a well-ventilated area. Mix only
     the amount you need and use portions listed on the label. 

     Keep children and pets away from areas where you mix or apply pesticides. 

     If a spill occurs, clean it up promptly. Don't wash it away. Instead, sprinkle with sawdust,
     vermiculite, or kitty litter; sweep into a plastic garbage bag; and dispose with the rest of your
     trash. 

     Remove pets (including birds and fish) and toys from the area to be treated. Remove food,
     dishes, pots, and pans before treating kitchen cabinets, and don't let pesticides get on these
     surfaces. Wait until shelves dry before refilling them. 

     Allow adequate ventilation when applying pesticides indoors. Go away from treated areas for
     at least the length of time prescribed by the label. When spraying outdoors, close the windows
     of your home. 

     Most surface sprays should be applied only to limited areas; don't treat entire floors, walls, or
     ceilings. 

     Never place rodent or insect baits where small children or pets can reach them. 

     When applying spray or dust outdoors, cover fish ponds, and avoid applying pesticides near
     wells. Always avoid over-application when treating lawn, shrubs, or gardens. Runoff or
     seepage from excess pesticide usage may contaminate water supplies. Excess spray may
     leave harmful residues on home-grown produce. 

     Keep herbicides away from non-target plants. Avoid applying any pesticide to blooming
     plants, especially if you see honeybees or other pollinating insects around them. Avoid birds'
     nests when spraying trees. 

     Never spray or dust outdoors on a windy day. 

     Never smoke while applying pesticides. You could easily carry traces of the pesticide from
     hand to mouth. Also, some products are flammable. 

     Never transfer pesticides to containers not intended for them, such as empty soft drink
     bottles. Keep pesticides in containers that clearly and prominently identify the contents.
     Properly refasten all childproof caps. 

     Shower and shampoo thoroughly after using a pesticide product. Wash the clothing that you
     wore when applying the product separately from the family laundry. To prevent tracking
     chemicals inside, also rinse boots and shoes before entering your home. 

     Before using a pesticide product, know what to do in case of accidental poisoning. 

     To remove residues, use a bucket to triple rinse tools or equipment, including any containers
     or utensils used to mix the chemicals. Then pour the rinse water into the pesticide container
     and reuse the solution by applying it according to the pesticide product label directions. 

     Evaluate the results of your pesticide use. 

Determining Correct Dosage 

So much information is packed onto pesticide labels that there is usually no room to include
examples of each dilution applicable to the multitude of home-use situations. As a result, label
examples may inadvertently encourage preparation of more pesticide than is needed. The excess
may contribute to overuse, safety problems related to storage and disposal, or simply wasted costs
of unused pesticide. 

Determining the correct dosage for different types of pesticides requires some simple calculations.
The following information can help you to prepare the minimum quantity of pesticide needed for your
immediate use situation. 

For example, the product label says, "For the control of aphids on tomatoes, mix 8 fluid ounces of
pesticide into 1 gallon water and spray until foliage is wet." Your experience has been that your six
tomato plants require only one quart of pesticide to wet all the foliage. Therefore, only 2 fluid ounces
of the pesticide should be mixed into 1 quart of water. Why? Because a quart is one-fourth of a
gallon, and 2 fluid ounces mixed into 1 quart make the same strength spray recommended by the
label, but in a quantity that can be used up all at once. 

Consumers can solve problems similar to this one with careful arithmetic, good measurements, and
intelligent use of the information provided here. 

How to Measure 

If you need to determine the size of a square or rectangular area, such as a lawn for herbicide
application, measure and multiply the length and width. For example, an area 10 feet long by 8 feet
wide contains 80 square feet. Common area measurements may involve square yards (1 square yard
= 9 square feet) or square feet (1 square foot = 144 square inches). 

If you need to determine the volume of a space such as a room, measure and multiply the room's
length, width, and height. For example, a space 10 feet long, 8 feet wide, and 8 feet high contains a
volume of 640 cubic feet. You would use this procedure, for instance, for an aerosol release to
control cockroaches. 

Most residential-use pesticides are measured in terms of volume. Some common equivalents are: 

1 gallon (gal.) = 128 fluid ounces (ft. oz.) = 4 quarts (qt.)
= 8 pints (pt.)
= 16 cups 

1 qt. = 32 ft. oz.
= 2 pt.
= 4 cups 

1 pt. = 16 ft. oz.
= 2 cups 

1 cup = 8 ft. oz. 

1 tablespoon = 1/2 fl. oz.
= 3 teaspoons 

1 teaspoon = 1/8 ft. oz. 

In measuring teaspoons or tablespoons of pesticide, use only level spoonfuls, and never use the same
measuring devices for food preparation. 

The following table provides examples to help you convert label information to your specific use
situations. "Amount" can be any measure of pesticide quantity. However, the same unit of measure
must be used on both sides of the chart. For example, 8 fluid ounces per gallon of water is equivalent
to 2 fluid ounces per quart of water. 

Not all dosage rates are included in the examples given here. For rates not included, remember that,
for pesticides not diluted with water, proportionally change both the quantity of pesticide and the
area, volume, or number of items treated. For example, one-half pound per 1,000 square feet is
equivalent to one-quarter pound per 500 square feet. For a pesticide that is diluted with water,
proportionally change the quantity of pesticide, the quantity of water, and the area, volume, or
number of items treated. For example, one-half pound of pesticide in 1 gallon of water applied to
1,000 square feet is equivalent to 1 pound of pesticide in 2 gallons of water applied to 2,000 square
feet. 

There is a point at which measurements needed for smaller quantities of pesticides are too minute to
be accurately measured with typical domestic measuring devices. In such cases, the user can either
mix the larger volume, realizing that there will be leftover material; obtain a more accurate measuring
device, such as a graduated cylinder or a scale which measures small weights; or search for an
alternative pesticide or less concentrated formulation of the same pesticide. 

Correct Storage and Disposal 

The following tips on home storage and disposal can help you handle pesticides correctly. 

Storage 

     Buy only enough product to carry you through the use season, to reduce storage problems. 

     Store pesticides away from children and pets. A locked cabinet in a well-ventilated utility area
     or garden shed is best. 

     Store flammable liquids outside living quarters and away from an ignition source. 

     Never put pesticides in cabinets with, or near, food, medical supplies, or cleaning materials.
     Always store pesticides in their original containers, complete with labels that list ingredients,
     directions for use, and antidotes in case of accidental poisoning. Never transfer pesticides to
     soft drink bottles or other containers that children may associate with something to eat or
     drink. Always properly refasten child-proof closures or lids. 

     Avoid storing pesticides in places where flooding is possible, or in open places where they
     might spill or leak into the environment. If you have any doubt about the content of a
     container, dispose of it with your trash. 

Disposal 

     The best way to dispose of a small, excess amount of pesticide is to use it--apply
     it--according to directions on the product label. If you cannot use it, ask your neighbor
     whether he/she can use it. If all the pesticide cannot be used, first check with your local health
     department or solid waste management agency to determine whether your community has a
     household hazardous waste collection program or any other program for handling disposal of
     pesticides. 

     If no community programs exist, follow label directions regarding container disposal. To
     dispose of less than a full container of a liquid pesticide, leave it in the original container, with
     the cap securely in place to prevent spills or leaks. Wrap the container in several layers of
     newspapers and tie securely. Then place the package in a covered trash can for routine
     collection with municipal refuse. If you do not have a regular trash collection service, take the
     package to a permitted landfill (unless your municipality has other requirements). 

Note: No more than one gallon of liquid pesticide should be disposed of in this manner. 

     Wrap individual packages of dry pesticide formulations in several layers of newspaper, or
     place the package in a tight carton or bag, and tape or tie it closed. As with liquid
     formulations, place the package in a covered trash can for routine collection. 

Note: No more than 5 pounds of pesticide at a time should be disposed of in this manner. 

     Do not pour leftover pesticides down the sink or into the toilet. Chemicals in pesticides could
     interfere with the operation of wastewater treatment systems or could pollute waterways,
     because many municipal systems cannot remove all pesticide residues. 

     An empty pesticide container can be as hazardous as a full one because of residues remaining
     inside. Never reuse such a container. When empty, a pesticide container should be carefully
     rinsed and thoroughly drained. Liquids used to rinse the container should be added to the
     sprayer or to the container previously used to mix the pesticide and used according to label
     directions. 

Empty product containers made of plastic or metal should be punctured to prevent reuse. (Do not
puncture or burn a pressurized product container--it could explode.) Glass containers should be
rinsed and drained, as described above, and the cap or closure replaced securely. After rinsing, an
empty mixing container or sprayer may also be wrapped and placed in the trash. 

     If you have any doubts about proper pesticide disposal, contact your state or local health
     department, your solid waste management agency, or the regional EPA office. 

How to Choose a Pest Control Company 

Termites are chomping away at your house. Roaches are taking over your kitchen. Mouse droppings
dot your dresser drawer. You've got a pest control problem, and you've decided that it's too serious
for you to solve on your own. You've decided you need a professional exterminator. 

If you find yourself in a situation like this, what can you do to be sure that the pest control company
you hire will do a good job? Here are some questions you can ask: 

1. Does the company have a good track record? 

Don't rely on the company salesman to answer this question; research the answer yourself. Ask
around among neighbors and friends; have any of them dealt with the company before? Were they
satisfied with the service they received? Call the Better Business Bureau or local consumer office;
have they received any complaints about the company? 

2. Does the company have insurance? What kind of insurance? Can the salesman show some
documentation to prove that the company is insured? 

Contractor's general liability insurance, including insurance for sudden and accidental pollution, gives
you as a homeowner a certain degree of protection should an accident occur while pesticides are
being applied in your home. Contractor's workmen's compensation insurance can also help protect
you should an employee of the contractor be injured while working in your home. 

In most states, pest control companies are not required to buy insurance, but you should think twice
before dealing with a company that is uninsured. 

3. Is the company licensed? 

Regulatory agencies in some states issue state pest control licenses. Although the qualifications for a
license vary from state to state, at a minimum the license requires that each company have a certified
pesticide applicator present in the office on a daily basis to supervise the work of exterminators using
restricted-use pesticides. (Certified applicators are formally trained and "certified" as qualified to use
or supervise the use of pesticides that are classified for restricted use.) If restricted-use pesticides are
to be applied on your premises, make sure the pest control operator's license is current. Also ask if
the company's employees are bonded. 

You may want to contact your state lead pesticide agency to ask about its pesticide certification and
training programs and to inquire if periodic recertification is required for pest control operators. 

In addition to the licenses required in some states, some cities also issue pest control licenses. Again,
qualifications vary, but possession of a city license--where they are available--is one more assurance
that the company you are dealing with is reputable and responsible. 

4. Is the company affiliated with a professional pest control association? 

Professional associations--whether national, state, or local--keep members informed of new
developments in pest control methods, safety, training, research, and regulation. They also have
codes of ethics that members agree to abide by. The fact that a company, small or large, chooses to
affiliate itself with a professional association signals its concern for the quality of its work. 

5. Does the company stand behind its work? What assurances does the company make? 

You should think twice about dealing with a company unwilling to stand behind its work. Be sure to
find out what you must do to keep your part of the bargain. For example, in the case of termite
control treatments, a guarantee may be invalidated if structural alterations are made without prior
notice to the pest control company. 

6. Is the company willing, and able, to discuss the treatment proposed for your home? 

Selecting a pest control service is just as important as selecting other professional services. Look for
the same high degree of competence you would expect from a doctor or lawyer. The company
should inspect your premises and outline a recommended control program, including what pests are
to be controlled; the extent of the infestation; what pesticide formulation will be used in your home
and why; what techniques will be used in application; what alternatives to the formulation and
techniques could be used instead; what special instructions you should follow to reduce your
exposure to the pesticide (such as vacating the house, emptying the cupboards, removing pets, etc.);
and what you can do to minimize your pest problems in the future. 

Contracts should be jointly developed. Any safety concerns should be noted and reflected in the
choice of pesticides to be used. These concerns could include allergies, age of occupants (infants or
elderly), or pets. You may want to get two to three, bids from different companies--by value, not
price. What appears to be a bargain may merit a second look. 

Even after you have hired a company, you should continue your vigilance. Evaluate results. If you
have reason to believe that something has gone wrong with the pesticide application, contact the
company and/or your state lead pesticide agency. Don't let your guard down, and don't stop asking
questions. 

How to Reduce Your Exposure to Pesticides 

Because chemical pesticides are so widely used in our society, and because of the properties of
many of the chemicals, low levels of pesticide residues are found throughout the environment.
Pesticides reach us in a variety of ways--through food, water, and air. 

In regulating pesticides, EPA strives to ensure that lawful use of these products will not result in
harmful exposures. Proper use of registered products should yield residue levels that are well within
established safety standards. Therefore, the average American's exposure to low-level residues,
though fairly constant, should not cause alarm. 

Still, many people want to learn what choices they can make to further reduce their exposure to any
potential risks associated with pesticides. By limiting your exposure to these products, you can keep
your risks to a minimum. 

Below you will find descriptions of the main pathways of human exposure to pesticides, as well as
suggestions on ways to reduce overall exposure and attendant risks. If, however, you suspect that
you suffer from serious chemical sensitivities, consult an expert to develop a more personally tailored
approach to managing this problem. 

Exposure Through Food 

Commercial Food 

Throughout life--beginning even before birth--we are all exposed to pesticides. A major source of
exposure is through our diets. We constantly consume small amounts of pesticides. Fruits and
vegetables, as well as meat, poultry, eggs, and milk, are all likely to contain measurable pesticide
residues. 

EPA sets standards, called tolerances, to limit the amount of pesticide residues that legally may
remain in or on food or animal feed marketed in U.S. commerce. Both domestic and imported foods
are monitored by the Food and Drug Administration (FDA) and the U.S. Department of Agriculture
(USDA) to ensure compliance with these tolerances. Further, since pesticide residues generally tend
to degrade over time and through processing, residue concentrations in or on most foods are well
below legal tolerance levels by the time the foods are purchased. 

Although EPA does limit dietary pesticide exposure through tolerances, you may wish to take extra
precautions. You can take several steps to reduce your exposure to residues in purchased food. 

     Rinse fruit and vegetables thoroughly with water; scrub them with a brush and peel them, if
     possible. Although this surface cleaning will not remove "systemic" pesticide residues taken up
     into the growing fruit or vegetable, it will remove most of the existing surface residues, not to
     mention any dirt. 

     Cook or bake foods to reduce residues of some (but not all) pesticides. 

     Trim the fat from meat and poultry. Discard the fats and oils in broths and pan drippings, since
     residues of some pesticides concentrate in fat. 

Home-grown Food 

Growing some of your own food can be both a pleasurable activity and a way to reduce your
exposure to pesticide residues in food. But, even here, there are some things you may want to do to
assure that exposure is limited. 

     Before converting land in an urban or suburban area to gardening, find out how the land was
     used previously. Choose a site that had limited (or no) chemical applications and where drift
     or runoff from your neighbor's activities will not result in unintended pesticide residues on your
     produce. Choose a garden site strategically to avoid these potential routes of entry, if
     possible. 

If you are taking over an existing garden plot, be aware that the soil may contain pesticide residues
from previous gardening activities. These residues may remain in the soil for several years, depending
on the persistence of the pesticides that were used. Rather than waiting for the residues to decline
naturally over time, you may speed the process. 

     Plant an interim, non-food, crop like annual rye grass, clover, or alfalfa. Such crops, with their
     dense, fibrous root systems, will take up some of the lingering pesticide residues. Then discard
     the crops--don't work them back into the soil--and continue to alternate food crops with
     cover crops in the off season. 

     During sunny periods, turn over the soil as often as every two to three days for a week or
     two. The sunlight will help to break down, or photodegrade, some of the pesticide residues. 

Once you do begin gardening, develop strategies that will reduce your need for pesticides while
maintaining good crop yields. 

     Concentrate on building your garden's soil, since healthy soil grows healthy plants. Feed the
     soil with compost, manure, etc., to increase its capacity to support strong crops. 

     Select seeds and seedlings from hardy, disease-resistant varieties. The resulting plants are less
     likely to need pesticides in order to flourish. 

     Avoid monoculture gardening techniques. Instead, alternate rows of different kinds of plants
     to prevent significant pest problems from developing. 

     Don't plant the same crop in the same spot year after year if you want to reduce plant
     susceptibility to over-wintered pests. 

     Become familiar with integrated pest management (IPM) techniques, so that you can manage
     any pest outbreaks that do occur without relying solely on pesticides. 

     Mulch your garden with leaves, hay, grass clippings, shredded/chipped bark, or seaweed.
     Avoid using newspapers to keep down weeds, and sewage sludge to fertilize plants.
     Newsprint may contain heavy metals; sludge may contain heavy metals and pesticides, both of
     which can leach into your soil. 

Food from the Wild 

While it might seem that hunting your own game, catching your own fish, or gathering wild plant
foods would reduce your overall exposure to pesticides, this isn't necessarily so. Wild foods hunted,
caught, or gathered in areas where pesticides are frequently used outdoors may contain pesticide
residues. Migratory species also may contain pesticide residues if these chemicals are used anywhere
in their flyways. 

Tolerances generally are not established or enforced for pesticides found in wild game, fowl, fish, or
plants. Thus, if you consume food from the wild, you may want to take the following steps to reduce
your exposure to pesticide residues. 

     Because wild game is very lean, there is less fat in which pesticides can accumulate. However,
     avoid hunting in areas where pesticide usage is very high. 

     Avoid fishing in water bodies where water contamination is known to have occurred. Pay
     attention to posted signs warning of contamination. 

     You may want to consult with fish and game officials where you plan to hunt or fish to
     determine whether there are any pesticide problems associated with that area. 

     When picking wild plant foods, avoid gathering right next to a road, utility right-of-way, or
     hedgerow between farm fields which probably have been treated (directly or indirectly) with
     pesticides. Instead, seek out fields that have not been used to produce crops, deep woods, or
     other areas where pesticide use is unlikely. 

     When preparing wild foods, trim fat from meat, and discard skin of fish to remove as many
     fat-soluble pesticide residues as possible. For wild plant foods, follow the tips provided for
     commercial food. 

Exposure Through Water 

Whether it comes from surface or ground water sources, the water flowing from your tap may
contain low levels of pesticides. 

When pesticides are applied to land, a certain amount may run off the land into streams and rivers.
This runoff, coupled with industrial discharges, can result in low-level contamination of surface water.
In certain hydrogeologic settings--for example, sandy soil over a ground water source that is near the
surface--pesticides can leach down through the soil to the ground water. 

EPA's Water Program sets standards and provides advisory levels for pesticides and other
chemicals that may be found in drinking water. Public municipal water systems test their water
periodically and provide treatment or alternate supply sources if residue problems arise. Private wells
generally are not tested unless the well owner requests such analysis. 

If you get your drinking water from a private well, you can reduce the chance of contaminating your
water supply by following these guidelines: 

     Be cautious about using pesticides and other chemicals on your property, especially if the well
     is shallow or is not tightly constructed. Check with your EPA regional office or County
     Extension Service before using a pesticide outdoors, to determine whether it is known or
     suspected to leach to ground water. Never use or mix a pesticide near your well head. 

     To avoid pesticide contamination problems, be sure your well extends downward to aquifers
     that are below, and isolated from, surface aquifers, and be sure the well shaft is tightly sealed.
     If you have questions about pesticide or other chemical residues in your well water, contact
     your state or county health department. 

     If your well water is analyzed and found to contain pesticide residue levels above established
     or recommended health standards, you may wish to use an alternate water source such as
     bottled water for drinking and cooking. The best choice is distilled spring water in glass
     bottles. Ask your local bottler for the results of a recent pesticide analysis. 

Exposure Through Air 

Outdoors, air currents may carry pesticides that were applied on adjacent property or miles away.
But there are steps you can take to reduce your exposure to airborne pesticide residue, or drift,
outdoors. To reduce your exposure to airborne pesticides: 

     Avoid applying pesticides in windy weather (when winds exceed 10 miles per hour). 

     Use coarse droplet nozzles to reduce misting. 

     Apply the spray as close to the target as possible. 

     Keep the wind to your side so that sprays and dusts do not blow into your face. 

     If someone else is applying pesticides outdoors near your home, stay indoors with your pets
     and children, keeping doors and windows closed. If it is very windy during the pesticide
     application, stay inside for an hour or two. 

     If pesticides are applied frequently near your home (if you live next to fields receiving regular
     pesticide treatment), consider planting a buffer zone of thick-branched trees and shrubs
     upwind to help serve as a buffer zone and windbreak. 

     Many local governments require public notification in advance of area-wide or broad-scale
     pesticide spray activities and programs--through announcements in newspapers, letters to
     area residents, or posting of signs in areas to be treated. Some communities have also enacted
     "right to know" ordinances which require public notification, usually through posting, of lawn
     treatments and other small-scale outdoor pesticide uses. If your local government does not
     require notifications, either for large- or small-scale applications, you may want to work with
     local officials to develop such requirements. 

Indoors, the air you breathe may bear pesticide residues long after a pesticide has been applied to
objects in your home or office, or to indoor surfaces and crawl spaces. Pesticides dissipate more
slowly indoors than outdoors. In addition, energy efficiency features built into many homes reduce air
exchange, aggravating the problem. To limit your exposure to indoor pesticide residues: 

     Use pesticides indoors only when absolutely necessary, and then use only limited amounts.
     Provide adequate ventilation during and after application. If you hire a pest control company,
     oversee its activities carefully. 

     If pesticides are used inside your home, air out the house often, since outdoor air generally is
     fresher and purer than indoor air. Open doors and windows, and run overhead or
     whole-house fans to exchange indoor air for outside air rapidly and completely. 

     If pesticides have been used extensively and an indoor air contamination problem has
     developed, clean--scrub--all surfaces where pesticides may have settled, including cracks and
     crevices. Consult a knowledgeable professional for advice on appropriate cleaning materials if
     soap and water are insufficient. 

Exposure Through Home Usage 

Over a lifetime, diet is the most significant source of pesticide exposure for the general public.
However, on a short-term basis, the most significant exposure source is personal pesticide use. 

An array of pesticide products, ranging widely in toxicity and potential effects, is available "off the
shelf" to the private user. No special training is required to purchase or use these products, and no
one is looking over the users' shoulder, monitoring their vigilance in reading and following label
instructions. Yet many of these products are hazardous, especially if they are stored, handled, or
applied improperly. 

To minimize the hazards and maximize the benefits that pesticides bring, exercise caution and respect
when using any pesticide product. 

     Consider pesticide labeling to be what it is intended to be: your best guide to using pesticides
     safely and effectively. 

     Pretend that the pesticide product you are using is more toxic than you think it is. Take special
     precautions to ensure an extra margin of protection for yourself, your family, and pets. 

     Don't use more pesticide than the label says. You may not achieve a higher degree of pest
     control, and you will certainly experience a higher degree of risk. 

     If you hire a pest control firm to do the job, ask the company to use the least toxic or any
     chemical-free pest control means available that will do the job. For example, some home pest
     control companies offer an electro-gun technique to control termite and similar infestations by
     penetrating infested areas and "frying" the problem pests without using any chemicals. 

     And remember: sometimes a non-pesticidal approach is as convenient and effective as its
     chemical alternatives. Consider using such non-pesticidal approaches whenever possible. 

"Someone's Been Poisoned. Help!" 

What To Do in a Pesticide Emergency 

The potential for a pesticide to cause injury depends upon several factors: 

     Toxicity of the active ingredient. Toxicity is a measure of the inherent ability of a chemical to
     produce injury. Some pesticides, such as pyrethrins, have low human toxicity while others,
     such as sodium fluoroacetate, are extremely toxic. 

     Dose. The greater the dose of a specific pesticide, i.e. the amount absorbed, the greater the
     risk of injury. Dose is dependent upon the absolute amount of the pesticide absorbed relative
     to the weight of the person. Therefore, small amounts of a pesticide might produce illness in a
     small child while the same dose of the same pesticide in an adult might be relatively harmless. 

     Route of absorption. Swallowing a pesticide usually creates the most serious problem. In
     practice, however, the most common route of absorption of pesticides is through the skin and
     the most toxic pesticides have resulted in death through this route of exposure. 

     Duration of exposure. The longer a person is exposed to pesticides, the higher the level in the
     body. There is a point at which an equilibrium will develop between the intake and the output.
     Then, the level will no longer continue to increase. However, this point may be either above or
     below the known toxic level. 

     Physical and chemical properties. The distribution and the rates of breakdown of pesticides in
     the environment significantly alter the likelihood that injury might occur. 

     Population at risk. Persons who run the greatest danger of poisoning are those whose
     exposure is highest, such as workers who mix, load, or apply pesticides. However, the
     general public also faces the possibility of exposure. 

Recognizing Pesticide Poisoning 

Like other chemicals, pesticides may produce injury externally or internally. 

External irritants may cause contact-associated skin disease primarily of an irritant nature--producing
redness, itching, or pimples--or an allergic skin reaction, producing redness, swelling, or blistering.
The mucous membranes of the eyes, nose, mouth, and throat are also quite sensitive to chemicals.
Stinging and swelling can occur. 

Internal injuries from any chemical may occur depending upon where a chemical is transported in the
body. Thus, symptoms are dependent upon the organ involved. Shortness of breath, clear saliva, or
rapid breathing may occur as the result of lung injury. Nausea, vomiting, abdominal cramps, or
diarrhea may result from direct injury to the gastrointestinal tract. Excessive fatigue, sleepiness,
headache, muscle twitching, and loss of sensation may result from injury to the nervous system. In
general, different classes of pesticides produce different sets of symptoms. 

For example, organophosphate pesticides may produce symptoms of pesticide poisoning affecting
several different organs, and may progress rapidly from very mild to severe. Symptoms may
progress in a matter of minutes from slight difficulty with vision to paralysis of the diaphragm muscle,
causing inability to breathe. 

Therefore, if someone develops symptoms after working with pesticides, seek medical help promptly
to determine if the symptoms are pesticide-related. In certain cases, blood or urine can be collected
for analysis, or other specific exposure tests can be made. It is better to be too cautious than too
late. 

It is always important to avoid problems by minimizing your exposure when mixing and applying
pesticides by wearing gloves and other protective clothing. 

The appropriate first aid treatment depends upon which pesticide was used. Here are some tips for
first aid that may precede, but should not substitute for, medical treatment: 

     Poison on skin. Drench skin with water and remove contaminated clothing. Wash skin and
     hair thoroughly with soap and water. Dry victim and wrap in blanket. Later, discard
     contaminated clothing or thoroughly wash it separately from other laundry. 

     Chemical burn on skin. Drench skin with water and remove contaminated clothing. Cover
     burned area immediately with loose, clean, soft cloth. Do not apply ointments, greases,
     powders, or other drugs. Later, discard or thoroughly wash contaminated clothing separately
     from other laundry. 

     Poison in eye. Eye membranes absorb pesticides faster than any other external part of the
     body; eye damage can occur in a few minutes with some types of pesticides. Hold eyelid
     open and wash eye quickly and gently with clean running water from the tap or a hose for 15
     minutes or more. Do not use eye drops or chemicals or drugs in the wash water. 

     Inhaled poison. Carry or drag victim to fresh air immediately. (If proper protection is
     unavailable to you, call for emergency equipment from the Fire Department.) Loosen victim's
     tight clothing. If the victim's skin is blue or the victim has stopped breathing, give artificial
     respiration and call rescue service for help. Open doors and windows so no one else will be
     poisoned by fumes. 

     Swallowed poison. A conscious victim should rinse his mouth with plenty of water and then
     drink up to one quart of milk or water to dilute the pesticide. Induce vomiting only if
     instructions to do so are on the label. If there is no label available to guide you, do not induce
     vomiting. Never induce vomiting if the victim is unconscious or is having convulsions. 

In dealing with any poisoning, act fast; speed is crucial. 

First Aid for Pesticide Poisoning 

First aid is the first step in treating a pesticide poisoning. Study the "Statement of Treatment" on the
product label before you use a pesticide. When you realize a pesticide poisoning is occurring, be
sure the victim is not being further exposed to the poison before calling for emergency help. An
unconscious victim will have to be dragged into fresh air. Caution: do not become poisoned yourself
while trying to help. You may have to put on breathing equipment or protective clothing to avoid
becoming the second victim. 

After giving initial first aid, get medical help immediately. This advice cannot be repeated too often.
Bring the product container with its label to the doctor's office or emergency room where the victim
will be treated; keep the container out of the passenger space of your vehicle. The doctor needs to
know what chemical is in the pesticide before prescribing treatment (information that is also on the
label). Sometimes the label even includes a telephone number to call for additional treatment
information. 

A good resource in a pesticide emergency is NPTN, the National Pesticide Telecommunications
Network, a toll-free telephone service. Operators are on call 24 hours a day, 365 days a year, to
provide information on pesticides and on recognizing and responding to pesticide poisonings. If
necessary they can transfer inquiries directly to affiliated poison control centers. 

National Pesticide Telecommunications Network Call Toll-Free 1-800-858-7378 

NPTN operators answer questions about animal as well as human poisonings. To keep your pets
from being poisoned, follow label directions on flea and tick products carefully, and keep pets off
lawns that have been newly treated with weed killers and insecticides. 

EPA is interested in receiving information on any adverse effects associated with pesticide exposure.
If you have such information, contact Frank Davido, Pesticide Incident Response Officer, Field
Operations Division (H-7506C), Office of Pesticide Programs, EPA, 401 M Street, SW.,
Washington, D C 20460. You should provide as complete information as possible, including any
official investigation report of the incident and medical records concerning adverse health effects.
Medical records will be held in confidence. 

EPA Regional Offices and States Covered 

EPA Region 1
JFK Federal Building
Boston, MA 02203
(617) 565-3424 

Connecticut, Massachusetts, Maine, New Hampshire, Rhode Island, Vermont 

EPA Region 2
26 Federal Plaza
New York, NY 10278
(212) 264-2515 

New Jersey, New York, Puerto Rico, Virgin Islands 

EPA Region 3
841 Chestnut Street
Philadelphia, PA 19107
(215) 597-9370 

Delaware, Maryland, Pennsylvania, Virginia, West Virginia, District of Columbia 

EPA Region 4
345 Courtland Street, N.E.
Atlanta, GA 30365
(404) 347-3004 

Alabama, Florida, Georgia, Kentucky, Mississippi, North Carolina, South Carolina, Tennessee 

EPA Region 5
230 South Dearborn Street
Chicago, IL 60604
(312) 353-2072 

Illinois, Indiana, Michigan, Minnesota, Ohio, Wisconsin 

EPA Region 6
1445 Ross Avenue
Dallas, TX 75202
(214) 655-2200 

Arkansas, Louisiana, New Mexico, Oklahoma, Texas 

EPA Region 7
726 Minnesota Avenue
Kansas City, KS 66101
(913) 551-7003 

Iowa, Kansas, Missouri, Nebraska 

EPA Region 8
One Denver Place
999 18th Street, Suite 1300
Denver, CO 80202-2413
(303) 293-1692 

Colorado, Montana, North Dakota, South Dakota, Utah, Wyoming 

EPA Region 9
75 Hawthorne Street
San Francisco, CA 94105
FTS 8-848-1305
DDD (415) 744-1305 

Arizona, California, Hawaii, Nevada, American Samoa, Guam, Trust Territories of the Pacific 

EPA Region 10
1200 Sixth Avenue
Seattle, WA 98101
FTS 8-399-1107
DDD (206) 553-1107 

Alaska, Idaho, Oregon, Washington 

EPA Headquarters
401 M Street S.W.
Washington, D.C. 20460
(202) 382-4454 

United States Environmental Protection Agency Regional Organization 

State Pesticide Agencies 

Region 1
Connecticut
Director
Dept. of Environmental Protection
Bureau of Waste Management, Pesticide Division State Office Building
165 Capitol Avenue
Hartford, CT 06106
(203) 566-5148 

Maine
Director
Board of Pesticide Control
Dept. of Agriculture
State House -- Station 28
Augusta, ME 04333
(207) 289-2731 

Massachusetts
Chief
Pesticides Bureau
Dept. of Food and Agriculture
100 Cambridge Street, 21st Floor
Boston, MA 02202
(617) 727-3020 

New Hampshire
Director
Division of Pesticides Control
Dept. of Agriculture
Caller Box 2042
Concord, NH 03302-2042
(603) 271-3550 

Rhode Island
Chief
Division of Agriculture and Marketing
Dept. of Environmental Management
22 Hayes Street
Providence, RI 02908
(401) 277-2781 

Vermont
Director
Plant Industry Laboratory of Standards Division Dept. of Agriculture
116 State St., State Office Bldg
Montpelier, VT 05602
(802) 828-2431 

Region 2 

New Jersey
Assistant Director,
Pesticide Control Program
NJ Dept. of Environmental Protection
380 Scotch Road CN 411
Trenton, NJ 08625
(609) 530-4123 

New York
Director
Bureau of Pesticides
Dept. of Environmental Conservation
Rm. 404, 50 Wolf Rd.
Albany NY 12233-7254
(518) 457-7482 

Puerto Rico
Director
Analysis & Registration of Agricultural Materials Division of Laboratory
Puerto Rico Dept. of Agriculture
P.O. Box 10163
Santurce, PR 00908
(809) 796-1715 

Virgin Islands
Director,
Pesticide Programs
Division of Natural Resources Management Department of Conservation and Cultural Affairs P.O.
Box 4340
St. Thomas, VI 00801
(809) 773-0565 

Region 3 

Delaware
Delaware Dept. of Agriculture
2320 S. DuPont Highway
Dover, DE 19901
(302) 739-4811 

District of Columbia
Pesticide and Hazardous Waste Management Branch, Environmental Control Division
Room 203
2100 Martin Luther King Avenue S.E.
Washington, D.C. 20020
(202) 404-1167 

Maryland
Chief
Pesticide Regulation Section
Maryland Dept. of Agriculture
50 Harry S. Truman Parkway
Annapolis, MD 21401
(301) 841-5710 

Pennsylvania
Chief
Agronomic Services
Bureau of Plant Industry
PA Dept. of Agriculture
2301 N. Cameron Street
Harrisburg, PA 17110-9408
(717) 787-4843 

Virginia
Supervisor
Office of Pesticide Management
VA Dept. of Agriculture and Consumer Service P.O. Box 1163
Richmond, VA 23209
(804) 371-6558 

West Virginia
Plant Pest Control Division
W VA Dept. of Agriculture
State Capitol Building
Charleston, WV 25305
(304) 348-2212 

Region 4 

Alabama
Director
Agricultural Chemistry/Plant Industry Division Alabama Dept. of Agriculture and Industries P.O.
Box 3336
Montgomery, AL 36109-0336
(205) 242-2631 

Florida
Administrator
Pesticide Registration Section
Bureau of Pesticides
Division of Inspection
Dept. of Agriculture and Consumer Services 3125 Conner Boulevard
Tallahassee, FL 32399-1650
(904) 487-0532 

Georgia
Agricultural Manager
Entomology and Pesticides Division
Dept. of Agriculture
19 Martin Luther King Jr. Drive, S.W.
Atlanta, GA 30334
(404) 656-4958 

Kentucky
Director
Division of Pesticides
Kentucky Dept. of Agriculture
500 Metro Street, 7th Floor
Frankfort, KY 40601
(502) 564-7274 

Mississippi
Division of Plant Industry
Dept. of Agriculture & Commerce
P.O. Box 5207
Mississippi State, MS 39762
(601) 325-3390 

North Carolina
Administrator
Pesticides
Food & Drug Pesticide Section
Dept. of Agriculture
P.O. Box 27647
Raleigh NC 27611-0647
(919) 733-3556 

South Carolina
Head
Pesticide
Dept. of Fertilizer/Pest Control
256 Poole Agriculture Center
Clemson University
Clemson, SC 29634-0394
(803) 656-3171 

Tennessee
Director
Plant Industries Division
Dept. of Agriculture
P.O. Box 40627, Melrose Station
Nashville, TN 37204
(615) 360-0130 

Region 5 

Illinois
Chief
Bureau of Plant and Apiary Protection
Dept. of Agriculture
State Fair Ground
P.O. Box 19281
Springfield, IL 62794-9281
(217) 785-2427 

Office of Health Regulation
Dept. of Public Health
535 West Jefferson
Springfield, IL 62761
(217) 782-4674 

Indiana
Administrator
Pesticide
Office of the State Chemist
Dept. of Biochemistry
Purdue University
West Lafayette, IN 47907
(317) 494-1492 

Michigan
Pesticide and Plant Pest Management Division Dept. of Agriculture
Ottawa Building
N. Tower, 4th Floor
611 W. Ottawa St.
P.O. Box 30017
Lansing, MI 48909
(517) 373-1087 

Minnesota
Director
Division of Agronomy Services
Dept. of Agriculture
90 West Plato Blvd.
St. Paul, MN 55107
(612) 296-1161 

Ohio
Specialist in Charge of Pesticide Regulation Division of Plant Industry
Dept. of Agriculture
8995 East Main St.
Reynoldsburg, OH 43068
(614) 866-6361 

Wisconsin
Director
Groundwater and Regulatory Service Section Dept. of Agriculture
Trade and Consumer Protection
801 West Badger Rd.
P.O. Box 8911
Madison, WI 53708
(608) 266-9459 

Region 6 

Arkansas
Director
Division of Feed, Fertilizer & Pesticides Arkansas State Plant Board
#1 Natural Resources Dr.
Little Rock, AR 72203
(501) 225-1598 

Louisiana
Office of Agricultural and Environmental Sciences Louisiana Dept. of Agriculture
P.O. Box 3596
Baton Rouge, LA 70821-3596
(504) 925-3763 

New Mexico
Director
Division of Agricultural and Environmental Services N.M. State Dept. of Agriculture
P.O. Box 3005-3AQ 1
N.M. State University
Las Cruces, NM 88003
(505) 545-2133 

Oklahoma
Chief
Pest Management Section
Plant Industry Division
Oklahoma State Dept. of Agriculture
2800 N. Lincoln Blvd.
Oklahoma City, OK 73105
(405) 521-3864 

Texas
Director
Division of Agricultural and Environmental Sciences Texas Dept. of Agriculture
P.O. Box 12847
Austin, TX 78711
(512) 463-7534 

Region 7 

Iowa
Supervisor
Pesticide Control Bureau Section
Iowa Dept. of Agriculture
Henry A. Wallace Building
E. 9th St. & Grand Ave.
Des Moines, IA 50319
(515) 281-8591 

Kansas
Director
Plant Health Division
Kansas State Board of Agriculture
109 S.W. 9th Street
Topeka, KS 66612
(913) 296-2263 

Missouri
Supervisor
Bureau of Pesticide Control
Dept. of Agriculture
P.O. Box 630
Jefferson City, MO 65102
(314) 751-2462 

Nebraska
Director
Bureau of Plant Industry
Nebraska Dept. of Agriculture
301 Centennial Mall South
Lincoln, NE 68509
(402) 471-2341 

Region 8 

Colorado
Chief,
Pesticide Applicator Section
Division of Plant Industry
Colorado Department of Agriculture
700 Kipling Street Ste 4000
Lakewood, CO 80215-5894
(303) 866-2838 

Montana
Administrator
Environmental Management Division
Montana Dept. of Agriculture
Agriculture-Livestock Building
Rm. 317 Capitol Station
6th & Roberts
Helena, MT 59620-0205
(406) 444-2944 

North Dakota
Director
Pesticide/Noxious Weed Division
N.D. Dept. of Agriculture
600 East Boulevard, 6th Floor
Bismarck, ND 58505-0020
(701) 224-4756 

South Dakota
Director
Division of Regulatory Services
S.D. Dept. of Agriculture
Anderson Bldg.,
445 East Capitol
Pierre, SD 57501
(605) 773-3724 

Utah
Director
Division of Plant Industries
Utah Dept. of Agriculture
350 North Redwood Road
Salt Lake City, UT 84116
(801) 538-7123 

Wyoming
Manager
Pesticide Division
Wyoming Dept. of Agriculture
2219 Carey Avenue
Cheyenne, WY 82002-0100
(307) 777-6590 

Region 9 

Arizona
Director
Agricultural Chemical & Environmental Services Division AZ Commission of Agriculture and
Horticulture 1688 West Adam's, Suite 103
Phoenix, AZ 85007
(602) 542-4373 

State Chemist
Office of the State Chemist
P.O. Box 1586
Mesa, AZ 85211
(602) 833-5442 

Executive Director
Structural Pest Control Commission
1150 S. Priest, Suite 4
Tempe, AZ 85281
(602) 255-3664 

California
California Department of Pesticide Regulation 1220 "N" Street
Sacramento, CA 98514
(916) 322-6315 

Hawaii
Director
Division of Plant Industry
Hawaii Dept. of Agriculture
1428 South King Street
Honolulu, HI 96814-2512
(808) 548-7119 

Nevada
Director
Division of Plant Industry
Nevada Dept. of Agriculture
350 Capitol Hill Avenue
P.O. Box 11100
Reno, NV 89510-1100
(702) 688-1180 

Guam
Pesticide Enforcement Officer Guam
Environmental Protection Agency
130 Rojas Street
Harmon, GU 96910 

American Samoa
Director
Dept. of Agriculture
P.O. Box 366
Pago Pago, American Samoa 96799 

Trust Territory of the Pacific Islands
Executive Officer
Trust Territory
Environmental Protection Board
Office of the High Commissioner
Trust Territory of the Pacific Islands
Saipan, Mariana Islands 96950 

Commonwealth of the Northern Mariana Islands Environmental Engineer
Division of Environmental Quality
Commonwealth of the Northern Mariana Islands (CNMI) Dr. Torres Hospital
Saipan, Mariana Island 96950 

Region 10 

Idaho
Chief
Bureau of Pesticides
Idaho Dept. of Agriculture
P.O. Box 790
Boise, ID 83701
(208) 334-3243 

Oregon
Assistant Chief
Plant Division
Oregon Dept. of Agriculture
635 Capitol Street, N.E.
Salem, OR 97310-0110
(503) 378-3776 

Washington
Assistant Director,
Pesticide Management Division
Washington Department of Agriculture
406 General Administration Building (AX-41) Olympia, WA 98504
(206) 753-5062 

Alaska
Director
Division of Environmental Health
Alaska Dept. of Environmental Conservation P.O. Box "O"
Juneau, AK 99811-1800
(907) 465-2609 

Pesticide Program Supervisor and Pesticide Specialist 500 South Alaska Street, Suite A
Juneau, AK 99645
(907) 465-2696